That's the simple answer - there is a lot more to it than that. We will
try and give a more explicit answer, but since we don't have bookfuls of space to spare,
it won't be the total answer.
Very basically the Earth revolves round the Sun, and the Moon revolves
round the Earth - that is the basic model for the explanations. Other planetary bodies
have such a miniscule part in all of this that we can ignore them.
The reason they orbit round each other is gravity which Mr Newton created
some laws about. The Sun exerts gravity on the Earth and tries to pull it in; the Earth
has a sideways force which tries to drag it away from the Sun and into space. The reason
one continues to orbit the other is a balance of those two forces called the resultant
force. The analogy for the Earth and Moon is the same and that keeps things simple - if only.
Newton's famous law of gravitation states that the force is proportional
to the mass of the Moon and inversely proportional to the square of the distance between them.
There is however something of a complication in that we are not considering
just Sun and Earth or just Earth and Moon, we are considering all three together which
kind of makes things a little more complicated.
If you consider the major obvious facts you have two:-
(1) The Earth orbits the Sun every year, and itself every 24 hours, which is called
a solar day, and there are 365 days in a year, so every year we start the cycle again
- not that simple though because it is closer to 365¼ days per year which is why every
4th year we add the odd ¼ s together to give an extra day which is of course our leap year.
Even that is not exact and every so often a leap second has to to be added
to adjust that small but increasing inaccuracy
(2) The Moon seemingly orbits the Earth every day except it
is more like 24 hours 50.47 minutes which is called a lunar day.
Something that may interest somebody out there is how the Earth and Moon
do truly interact. Most people consider that the Earth spins on its own axis and the
Moon on its own axis. Whilst that is to a theoretical degree true, the Earth is
exerting a force on the Moon and the Moon on the Earth - however, the Earth is more
massive with higher gravity than the Moon so they interact with each other and do in
fact have a common centre of mass which is not the axis of the Earth but a point
inside the Earths crust, (fig.1).
If you consider two Earths rotating together with
equal mass and gravity the common centre would be exactly half way between them,
(fig.2). This is a binary system which is something you more commonly hear about
regarding 2 stars rotating together.
You can of course apply the same analogy to Sun and Earth where you
find the centre of mass is actually in the Sun but not at it's centre.
A further complication is that the Earth's axis of rotation is inclined
23.45° with respect to the plane of Earth's orbit about the Sun, so as the year
progresses we move through the seasons with the Sun appearing higher or lower in the sky.
Getting back to the subject of tides, as the Moon orbits the Earth it pulls
the oceans up at the closest point and gives a high tide, the furthest point on the
Earth has the least pull and in essence rises further from the surface. At the sides
the effect is minimal and you have low tides. Whilst the Moon is pulling up the Earth
is pulling back which gives a near balance, which is why the oceans rise and fall in
the order of metres and don't fly off into space.
That said we have to consider the effect of the Sun. Whilst it is immensely
more massive than the Moon, it is also a lot further away and does in fact exert a
force that is 46% of the Moons force, ie., less than half the effect of the moon.
Since the Sun and Moon are not synchronised we find that the effect on the
Earth from both Sun and Moon varies resulting in varying tides. Orbits are not circular
and the Earth and Moon are rarely at nearest or furthest points at the same time as Earth
and Sun. These are some of many factors which make tide calculation much more complex
than might be imagined.
If the Sun and Moon are in the same direction the force is the greatest and
we have a 'high' high tide and a 'low' low tide. This is known as a 'Spring tide'
(fig.3) and the Moon is 'New'. NB.'Spring' tides happen all year, not just in the spring.
When they are at 90° to each other we have a 'low' high tide with a 'high'
low tide. This is known as a 'Neap tide' and the Moon is in its 'first' (fig.4) or
'last quarter' (fig.6).
If they are on opposite sides of the Earth they compliment each other
and we again get a 'high' high tide and a 'low' low tide. This again is known as a
'Spring tide' (fig.5), but the Moon is 'Full'.
Leaving aside Sun and Moon further consideration has to be given to the
effect of our own Earth on the tides. If it were a perfect sphere covered only in
water of a constant depth the tidal pattern would be relatively well balanced with
a bulge towards the moon, and a bulge opposite, and no other complications. We have
however an Earth which has oceans, seas, channels etc., of massively differing depths
in amongst lumps of land of massively differing shape and size.
All of that makes local tidal prediction exceedingly more complex than
the perfect global model. A typical tide would be something like that depicted,
(fig.7) with the high tide being roughly 12 hours 25 minutes after a low and the
next low after a further roughly 12hr 25mins.
At this point we can get very local and consider what happens at Swanage
which is the major coastal town in the Isle of Purbeck.
Swanage is founded around Swanage Bay, but effectively in the English Channel.
The tide is funnelled as it passes round Kent and spread as it moves west to the
Isle of Wight where it is 'split' each side of the Isle of Wight. Having so done
it 'rejoins' aroundabout the Needles, but since it has covered different distances
and been subjected to different sea-floor conditions and depths there is a lag on
the north side.
This is a very simplistic explanation, there are many variables that
change the tidal pattern around the UK and the rest of the world besides the south
coast of England.
There is also loss of tidal energy on the north side of the Isle
of Wight courtesy of the Solent. This results in there being a double tide where
the leading high starts to drop and is then caught up with by the trailing high.
If for instance you were standing on Swanage beach you would expect
the tide to flow up the beach for the high tide, then ebb down the beach for a
while and then hover or flow again, although not to such a high point, and then
ebb down to the low tide. (fig.8)
Given this sequence of high tide and then a second tide at Swanage,
there are places where the sequence is reversed due to different local conditions.
This is not the only anomaly along the south coast of England, but it
is one of the most interesting, we think.
A popular misconception with tides is that it is the whole body of water
flowing along whilst it is in fact a rise and fall at the surface which does produce
movement back and forth with the tide. The deeper the body of water the less the
apparent movement at that depth, and at greater depth you reach a state of almost
zero movement. When you get to the sea floor of course, which cannot move,
no movement at all.
Very simplistically the tide flows up the beach and ebbs back down it.
Less simplistically as waves move into shallow water the wave energy is concentrated
in lessening depth which causes them to steepen, and when the slope at the crest
becomes sufficiently steep the wave breaks with the shape of the breaking wave
dependent on the slope of the bottom. If the slope is sufficiently steep the wave
may not actually break but impact and dissipate as 'white water'.
Many wave phenomena are actually not tidal effects but weather effects
such as 'white horses' caused by the wind clipping the top of the wave.
There are of course concentrations of flow and ebb around and over places like Old
Harry Rocks and Peveril Shelf which can prove most hazardous.